Ulster County's Agribusiness Is Reinventing Itself

Ulster County is a leader in agriculture in the state and the nation, ranked third statewide as a producer of apples, berries, sweet corn, nuts and other fruits and ranked 15th nationally with its apple crop in a state that was second in the nation in 2017.

“Agribusiness is one of the County’s largest and most important industries. That said, our farmers have been struggling for decades to compete with large industrial scale farms elsewhere in the country,” said Tim Weidemann, the Ulster County’s director of economic development. “We’ve seen a fairly steady decline in both the number of farms and total farmland.”

In 2017, Ulster County reportedly had 421 farms with 121 of them, 29 percent of the county total, grossing less than $2,500 in sales annually. Seventy-five farms, 18 percent of the county total, earned $100,000 in annual gross sales. Such disparity has always existed, yet made more clear during the global viral pandemic that rearranged many economic norms. Now the county has gained national attention for popularity for its progressive ethos and as an attractive tourism destination graced by the Catskill Mountains and its spacious farmlands.

Yet, what seems like a idyllic place for those seeking a piece of that refuge, it also presents challenges for those relying on the land we all need to live and thrive. “One thing to note is that farmers are nothing if not innovative,” said Weidemann. “Over the past decade, an interesting trend has emerged: agritourism. It’s been a lifesaver for many farms, by providing them with a new source of income that can supplement declining profits from actual ag production.”

Agriculture is available to anyone. Backyard gardens, if maintained well, are a viable food source. If gardening takes too much personal time, community supported agriculture (CSA), enables consumers to pay farms for a supply of vegetables during the growing season.  This may not be agritourism, but it does allow for direct access to consumers while keeping open space – farmland – viable and productive. Much of the community supported agriculture (CSAs) land is in the fertile valleys of the Wallkill River and Rondout Creek, both of which define the eastern and western boundaries of the Shawangunks.

The majestic Shawangunks and its views have long fostered agribusiness of both sides of its slopes, along with the tourism that brings needed sales to reliant businesses. In 2020, the county had 14 farmstands, eight farm markets, 15 breweries, 12 wineries, eight distilleries and eight cideries. Corn mazes, harvest festivals and apple picking are popular autumn tourist activities for families. Yet, others prefer the tasting rooms of wineries, cideries and distilleries, like Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery in Gardiner. Since 2019, agritourism has grown 126 percent in Ulster County, and fueled undoubtedly by the COVID pandemic that sent so many New York City residents streaming north to live and work.

Elizabeth Ryan owns Stone Ridge Orchards in Stone Ridge. A farm stand is open there on Route 213 near the intersection of Route 209, and fruits, vegetables and hard cider can be bought there – even in January. That farm is part of a handful agribusinesses owned by Ryan, and that includes Adair winery in New Paltz, Breezy Hill in Rhinebeck and a farm in Milton. Ryan has been sending her products to New York City for about 40 years either through farmers markets and (DIRECTLY DELIVERED? TO RETAIL???) delivered there. Time and climate changes challenge agribusiness people like Ryan – as did a deadly pandemic and its migration. “We lost a million pies in NYC because our market collapsed,” said Ryan.

That shift resulted in a 75 percent loss of NYC business for Ryan and a 100 percent gain locally.  But even with selling her product locally, that did not make up for the loss in NYC markets because of the size difference. It instead enabled her to shift business strategies. “It’s come back. The markets here have expanded,” she said. “COVID showed us the perils of too much dependence on the urban markets.”

Agritourism is something Ryan has watched for years, and now, as Weidemann, noted earlier, it has matured into a viable manner of agricultural survival. “I always thought it would come, now it’s here,” Ryan said.

Angry Orchard, owned by the Boston Beer Company, which brews Sam Adams, has a tasting room just over the Orange County border, and Ryan said that facility is a behemoth compared to small regional businesses of this type. “We have to really up our game, and that’s challenging,” she said. And that includes a capital investment many businesses of that type need to work and develop over in time. “Its very capital intensive, with lots of shiny stuff,” she said. “You’re looking at millions of dollars to get to the next level.”

Increased competition with deeper pockets is also an issue as are climate losses and their mitigation measures. That mitigation includes the construction of green house and other indoor climate-control measures. “They take capital and time. They take some experimentation,” said Ryan. And all of these issues are successfully approached with a keen eye on the bottom line. “You have to be very thoughtful. You have to watch your margins,” said Ryan.

Ulster County agribusinesses can get technical and business support from the Rondout Valley Grower’s Association and the Hudson Valley Agribusiness Development Center. The county is also available to help with federal grants. “The county Legislature recently authorized use of some federal ARPA funds to set up an Agricultural Crisis Relief Program, which we will roll out this year,” said Weidemann. “That program will likely provide small grants to farmers and provide a way for us to engage more with them to better understand their business challenges and how we can help.

Direct marketing is also a way to connect with consumers. An event organized in 2022 by Cornell Cooperative Extension Ulster County at the Phoenicia Diner connected seven local and regional livestock producers with consumers as each donated 10-40 lbs. meat to taste and eat. “One of the event's goals was to provide an educational experience for consumers and marketing opportunities for producers,” said Uliana Ahashkova, an agriculture economic development educator at Cornell Cooperative Extension. “In 2023 we are planning to organize the same type of event and invite a bigger number of farmers and local customers.”

Ryan said the challenges have been offset by the awareness of local and county officials who realize how much agriculture benefits their communities. And that has encouraged her and others to remain vigilant with their set goals.

“We really have this vision of a farm-based business,” she said. “We want to be here in 100 years.”

Written by Bond Brungard for Ulster Strong